Capsule Piece #5 – Cashmere Jumper

I have never liked wearing wool.  When I wear wool against my bare skin it’s as if it becomes electrified with sparks, hair follicles smarting at the irritation. Scratchy school jumpers and over-tight 70′s polo necks you could barely stretch over your head, memories that reeked of hours of discomfort and clock-watching until you could get home and tear the offending articles off your poor rashed body.

However, those were the days before I discovered cashmere.  Ah, cashmere… My first experience of real cashmere was a genuine pashmina.  I couldn’t believe how beautifully soft it was, how it enveloped my chilly neck so gently.  I waited for the itching to start, but it never did.  It was a revelation!  I was hooked.  Until that point I had always resorted to man-made fibres for softness, but they never provided the warmth I needed.

Cashmere has wonderful properties, but it’s ability to keep you warm while remaining refined and lightweight is it’s ultimate benefit.  I trawl many wardrobes that contain drawer upon drawer and shelf upon shelf of well-worn polyester polar fleece jumpers.  Their existence is defended rigorously by their owners who cite “comfortable, warm, cosy” as the reasons they keep them.  I get it.  I understand.  If you’re climbing Snowdon as part of the Three Peaks Challenge this kind of garment will show it’s worth.  But, when you’re dressing for work, school drop-off or lunch with some friends, they don’t cut the mustard.

A simple cashmere jumper has a sophistication about it and just as much warmth as any knackered old fleece.  You can wear pearls or a silk scarf with it.  You can wear it like Betty Draper from Mad Men with a pencil skirt, or like Audrey Hepburn as a beatnik with black cigarette pants in “Funny Face”.  It can soften a leather jacket and indigo jeans, or provide protection over a flimsy summer dress as the sun goes down.  Now be honest, would your fleece be as versatile?…I didn’t think so.

So, which piece should you add as an essential wardrobe item?  What about this jumper by Chinti and Parker exclusively at Net a Porter at £285.  Classic design that will earn it’s place in your capsule wardrobe.  A black cashmere jumper will work no matter what the season and can be dressed up or down whatever the occasion.

 

 

 

If your budget doesn’t stretch that far, what about this gorgeous piece at the Pure Collection.  Their Gassato Cashmere Sweater is a perfect item to add to your collection, and at £109 it’s a pretty good price for good quality cashmere.  They offer three colour ways that are perfect for a chic understated look.

So will you take a look in that wardrobe of yours and banish those bobbly old fleeces?  It’s worth it, I promise you, if you want to go from eek to chic!

Later.

E x

A/W ’12 Fashion Week – London

It has been said many a time over the years that London Fashion Week is the poor relation to Paris, Milan and New York.  For reasons unknown to me it has often been felt that London is just too off the wall to be recognised as an all-round influencer of fashion, that it is solely the destination of the quirky and the eccentric.  That’s not a bad thing in itself – who wants to be too mainstream anyway?  But this attitude by the elite in the fashion world denies the fact that London fashion has, for many years, been envied around the world for it’s imaginative re-inventions.

But it’s not just eccentric re-invention that we are good at.  This experimental aspect of British fashion grows out of strong design and manufacturing foundations and a thorough understanding of what can and can’t be achieved.  We have amazing traditional roots and an amazing design heritage that speaks for itself.

London Fashion Week (LFW) AW12 has been a wonderful affair.  I found New York a fairly sombre affair in all with New York displaying far more black than was necessary.  So when LFW started, it was with an explosion of bold print on print combinations, imaginative silhouettes and a blatant disregard for the otherwise miserable climate the media in general would have us wallow in. Economic crisis… yawn!  We all know what’s happening and that is exactly why this kind of escapism is so desperately needed at the moment.

There were some stand out favourites for me.

  

Antoni & Alison had a collection made up of dresses – yes, just dresses.  The prints on each of the dresses were of the drawings of the dresses themselves.  Sketched belts and waistcoats, prints of fabric swatches and a lovely 2D patchwork of colours and textures.

 

Burberry Prorsum (see their end of show in the picture above) is a favourite for so many reasons.  Christopher Bailey is a genius when it comes to amping up traditional design elements, making fresh new looks each season.  Peplums on trench coats, bow trimmed belts, baker boy caps, all wonderful elements of a powerful yet feminine collection.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label.  there were a couple of great pieces in this collection.  I especially like the “School Ma’am” feel to this particular outfit.

 

Issa are such a commercially appealing label, with the added weight of being a favourite of the Duchess of Cambridge.  The models seemed to be modelled on her and were sporting some very flattering and easily translatable pieces.  Kate’s “Signature” dress in green will work well for so many body types.

Finally I will mention Temperley.  I love Alice Temperley’s design aesthetic.  She is so quintessentially British in her approach and appeal.  She has something for everyone, but my particular favourites are always her full length dresses.

 

This is just a little insight to the LFW shows for AW12.  When the season comes upon us we will be able to see exactly how the high street will pick and choose their favourite silhouettes and trends.

Keep coming back if you would like my run-downs of NY, Paris and Milan.

E x

 

Spring/Summer/Autumn/Winter – Where do I start?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know, I know… Winter isn’t even half finished yet and the magazines are bursting with the fabulous Summer trends.  Those of you who aren’t familiar with how the fashion calendar works  may well be a little confused as the fashion publications and stylists will also be commenting on the A/W ’12 fashion week trends very very soon (they run through from January until March with the Men’s Paris A/W12 shows progressing as I type).

At any one given point I will be looking closely at 3 seasons.  I aim to pick up the best pieces from last season at bargain prices looking at how they can be used this spring.  Then, by looking at shows for next Autumn, I can anticipate what’s worth investing in this summer, the silhouettes that will be staying around and the fabrics, colours and detailing that can transcend seasons.

For those who love fashion, this kind of planning is almost irrelevant.  Fashion isn’t meant to last, it’s meant to be fleeting and frivolous.   The whole point of subscribing to the latest trend is that it’s fun, short lived, transient, being replaced by fresh new looks just as boredom sets in.

However, if you are looking from a personal style angle where it’s not all about fashion but about creating a versatile wardrobe that can work well for you, how do you distinguish between items that will last and those that will die a death, so that you can make the most of your investments?

You need to think long and hard about the image you are creating or developing.

  • Do you have a particular style that you love?
  • Can it work for your figure or do you need to interpret it differently to work better?
  • Do you want to reflect different aspects of your personality through clever dressing and accessorising techniques?
  • Would you prefer a smaller collection of clothing, but better quality?
  • Would you like to tighten up your colour and print palettes?
  • Would you like to learn how to be able to do this and still have a trend driven aspect without having to buy in to the whole “look”?

It is all about setting priorities.  If you are going to part with your hard earned cash make sure that you are gaining true pleasure from the items you are buying. Buy items that make you look great, items that you can’t wait to wear because they make you look so good.

I have my own personal rule where, after making any new purchases, I hang them on the door of my wardrobe and wait for the urge to wear them.  If this doesn’t happen in the first 24 hours then I high tail them back to the shop they came from.  I apply this to both the basic items and the riskier pieces.  I look for an emotional reaction because I live my life wearing these clothes and want to enjoy doing so.

This summer looks exciting, especially on a grey and rainy day like today.  I’ll be glad when the shops are full of delicious colours and summer weight fabrics, even if it’ll be a while before I can wear them.  The wait will be worth it.

E x

 

 

Capsule Piece #4 – Blazer

I am again drawn to write about yet another capsule piece that has an androgynous air to it – the Blazer.

What is it about these masculine items that make them so appealing?  Perhaps it is the apparent simplicity of the shape that works, the clean, uncluttered lines that can help to showcase the more  intricate blouse or dress underneath.  There are plenty of variations depending on your body shape and particular style.

 

 

I have a bit of a crush on Zoe Ball – there, it’s out.  She is a woman who understands  what it takes to wear a blazer with the kind of assertive, feminine air that I love and admire.  She rarely subscribes to a typical way of feminine dressing and always has a rock-chick air about the way she presents herself.  A blazer, skinny jeans, sublime shoes and a bit of sparkle underneath, be it a rock T or satin blouse.  I am an avid Strictly fan, but this year she was the star of the whole series hosting the accompanying Strictly “It Takes Two” on BBC2.  I loved every outfit she wore – without exception.

It’s as if the most important aspect of dressing like this is what you leave out, what you don’t wear.  It should be about the tailoring, the structure, the fit.

To wear a blazer well, make sure you keep a feminine touch.  That is where the skill comes in.

  • As with the trench coat, turn up or push up the sleeves in a slightly irreverent way.  This looks even beter if the lining is a different colour.
  • Don’t wear it too formally.  Jeans look great, as do Converse All Stars and an ageing Rolling Stones T.
  • Belt it.  When a blazer fits well, a skinny belt worn over the top and tied or knotted can look fantastic.
  • Check the proportions.  If you are going for a looser boyfriend fit make sure that the shoulders don’t resemble those of an american footballer.  The cut should be looser and slightly less structured than a classic fitted blazer, but not cavernous.  This style looks great with slim or skinny fit trousers.
  • One or two buttoned single breasted styles are great classics and will last for years.

A tailored jacket is a great staple for any capsule collection.  Wearing a tailored jacket can be an instant posture improver, pulling your shoulders back to where they should be.  They are also great for masking any little figure flaws, smoothing the silhouette and avoiding cling.  It is certainly worth considering investing in quality – as is the case with many of the capsule pieces I write about.  

Until the next time…

E

 

Capsule Piece #3 – Trench Coat

Inheriting a house is a good thing, but inheriting an iconic trench coat is something else, especially if it’s a Burberry.

I haven’t inherited one myself, although my Mum does have a beautiful Aquascutum trench waiting in the wings, but there was a wonderful serendipitous moment when I spied the perfect Burberry in the window of a charity shop in Wokingham five years ago.  I couldn’t quite believe my eyes: size 10, classic beige, horn buttons, leather trim belt and the style number label intact in the pocket.  At £25 I made a bee line for the nearest bank and came back cash in hand to embark on a hopefully long lasting relationship with my new best friend.  I immediately had the length adjusted by my other best friend (seamstress) and changed the buttons to chocolate brown to give it a new twist and there we have it – perfection!

A trench coat should look like it’s been yours forever, the skin you live in.  Originally designed and developed for officers in the trenches of WW1 (do we all know the story?), the trench coat was created for a specific purpose – to protect and galvanise it’s wearer against the most hideous of environmental elements.

We have remained faithful to this classic design for a number of reasons:

Patriotism plays a significant part.  It is a symbol of all that is great about British design, something of which we are tirelessly proud and that is envied around the globe.

The aesthetic.  Beautifully balanced proportions, a double breasted design that seems to defy many traditional styling rules by not widening your frame.

Great craftsmanship.  When you look at the construction in detail you see exactly what it is you are paying for:  seams that can withstand enemy bombardment and fabrics that can repel the worst that the wheels of any articulated lorry can deliver.

Versatility for both sexes is another thing.  It’s universal appeal is undeniable.

So, how do you wear it? My advice is don’t be prim and proper.

For women it needs to look nonchalant, so push up the sleeves and tie the belt, don’t buckle it. What do you wear it with?  Everything of course!  This is the one coat that can go over anything including your jeans, LBD or the most glamorous of evening dresses.  And we’ve all seen the femme fatale wearing it over the briefest whispers of lingerie.  Just be careful not to look too “classic” in it with twinsets and frumpy skirts.  It’s a lifestyle piece, a statement, not simply a piece of clothing.

Men should wear it with the same ease.  Layer it over a t shirt and blazer with dark indigo jeans.  Wear it smartly with Chelsea boots  and cashmere scarf or with converse sneakers and a zip neck sweater.  Thrown over a tux and you’re on to a winning look.

You can find versions of the classic trench coat all over the high street from supermarket retailers to the highest of high end designers.  Look at your pocket and see what you can stretch to.

Having owned an original at a bargain rail price, would I be prepared to pay the hefty £850 + price tag for a new Burberry?  I believe I might be persuaded. Granted, it would take me some time to save for it (gonna need a bigger piggy bank!), but knowing that it will probably last me for the rest of my days could make it the wisest of investments, an investment that my daughter might even enjoy.

What’s Your Resolution?

Happy New Year to you all!  I am planning on making this a blindingly good year – how about you?

But have you started the year by making rash resolutions?

I don’t make New Year’s resolutions.  I learnt a long time ago that the promises we make at this time of year are by far the easiest to break, as they are usually promises made by ourselves, to ourselves and about ourselves.  The only person we usually let down is ourselves.

The promises we make during times of pressure and obligation are doubly hard to keep.  You awake on New Year’s day, invariably filled with remorse over the copious over-indulgences and excesses of the preceding fortnight, experiencing levels of guilt surpassed only by that of a mother, feeling compelled to make immediate amends.

When it comes to my business there will be countless people subscribing to the following promises:

  • Lose a stone (2 stone, 3 stone , delete where applicable…)
  • Start a diet tomorrow – yeah, right!
  • Drop 2 dress sizes – in 1 month!  Nothing like pressure…
  • Get into their “skinny” jeans
  • Give up chocolate – just one question – WHY?
  • Detox their wardrobes
  • Spend less on clothing
or even more difficult…
  • Spend less on shoes!  Alien concept I know…

There are a few points on the above list that I can help you with.  Detoxing wardrobes, as you know, is a speciality, as is helping you to spend less on clothing and shoes (I know you can do it).  I can’t help  you to lose weight, but I may be able to help you dress in a way that makes you look like you’ve lost a dress size.  I can also help to boost your confidence and help you see all your good points more clearly.

However if you are going to insist on making New Year’s promises, try one of these:

  • Find a good seamstress, hand her the pile of clothing you’ve been meaning to repair since the summer and save yourself hours of time.
  • Hang your clean clothes up after wearing them and save yourself the time wasted re-ironing clothes that have been strewn over the end of the bed.
  • Polish your shoes.
  • Stop beating yourself up for not getting into your “skinny” clothes and pack them away instead.
  • Don’t give up chocolate – sometimes it’s the only answer!

I can’t wait to get my teeth in to my routine and a brand new year full of mystery and, as yet unknown, opportunities.  Make yours a good one!

E x

Gentlemen – Can I Collar you for a moment?

When you go shopping for a new shirt, are you the kind of guy who simply pulls a shirt off a rack, with a cursory glance declare “that’ll do”, then sweep swiftly away to the counter thinking ” job done”?

For many men, a shirt is a shirt is a shirt.  It’s a piece of clothing that may or may not be worn with a tie, can be tucked or untucked and whose design changes very little over time so that you can own one for years without it needing to be replaced (shirts from the 70′s are exempt from this for good reason).  I have visited many wardrobes that contain faithful old shirts from the distant past that haven’t been thrown or replaced because they still work.  But are they working in the right way for you?

What are the key considerations when buying a shirt?

One of the most important elements is the collar.  Every collar style is designed with a specific aim, to do certain things for the wearers appearance.  I’m not just talking about formal or casual appearance here, I am referring to how a collar works with your features, emphasising the positive and detracting from the negative.
Style #1 – The classic Regular Pointed collar is a staple that’s readily available wherever you go.  It’s the reliable standard shape that works well with or without a tie, done up or undone.  There are no frills here, no variation in proportions.  This is the shirt that will see you through all occasions.

 
Next, the Cutaway or Spread collar.  The straight cut version is often called a Windsor collar after the Duke of Windsor.  Another version, sometimes known as the Varsity collar, has a gentle outward curved edge – very much favoured by europeans.  They are wide to accomodate a wide knot tie, such as the full Windsor knot and work well for slim necks and long faces, adding width and drawing the eye across the face and neck.  The look is still fresh even today and work particularly well with two tone shirts.  This style should should not be worn informally.

 

Style #3 is the Button-down collar.  A favourite of many American IT companies, the button down is seen as smart casual rather than formal and can be worn with or without a tie.  One request is please, please, always button the collar down.  They can look very scruffy indeed if left loose.  This was a Mod era favourite.

 

Next is the Tab Collar.  This isn’t readily available everywhere.  It has a wonderful crisp neatness in it’s appearance and, due to it’s long point and lengthened appearance it can help a round face look longer and slimmer.  Worn with a tie, the tab pushes the knot forward helping it stand out.  Not recommended for men with long slim faces.

 

And finally, the Wing Collar.  Definitely the most formal of all collars.  This is traditionally reserved for dinner suits and wedding attire – unless you consider yourself a trend leader and have your own way of rocking this look.

 

There are plenty of other variations and, as trends change, the selection available can become more and more confusing.  Just as with all other garments it is about proportion and balance between your features and figure and the garments themselves.  The better you understand your finer points, the more you can make of them.

And that’s where I can help.

Capsule Piece #2 – Jeans

Well, what else?  The majority of us seem to spend our lives in them, so they need attention.

Can be a bloody nightmare to find though!

For women, jeans, in my view, are one of the most intimate pieces of clothing you will ever buy.  Each of the component parts and elements need to marry together in the most harmonious of ways, hugging you, supporting your figure and showcasing you in the best possible way.  It’s about the weight of the denim, the depth and quality of colour, the shading on the thighs and a myriad other things.

Pocket size and placement are crucial and can make or break how your rear looks. The depth of the back yoke and the depth of waistband help to enhance your bum making it look bigger or smaller – whatever you require.  Pockets placed too low can make your rear look saggy, placed too high and it can look, well, saggy.  Too small and you look wide, too big and you look swamped.

And this is before we even think about leg shape, a key consideration that can only be determined by understanding your own body shape.  Skinny, twisted, carrot, tapered, bootleg, flared, kick flare, wide leg, straight, cropped, boyfriend…Aghhh!

Next, how much should we invest?  Do you have £9.99 or £325 spare?  If it’s the former, get down to New Look and pick up a pair of skinnies, but if you’re lucky enough to have £325 what about a pair of Goldsign Sissi flares at Donna Ida.

Investment should always come into the equation if you wear them frequently – what are they going to cost each time you wear them?  If you aren’t an avid jeans wearer, at £9.99 and only worn twice a New Look pair comes out at £5 a pop. If, however, you wear jeans 150 days out of the year £325 makes more sense – it’s simple logic.

So, what is the perfect capsule pair?  In keeping with the belief that your capsule is versatile for any number of situations, the most versatile should be dark indigo or blue/black denim with subtle shading on the thigh.  These colours respond well to being dressed up or down, unlike light washes which invariably look more casual.  The styling should be right for your particular figure and tastes.  Be very aware of leg length and don’t expect that one pair will be ok for both flats and heels – that is dependent on the leg style.  Skinnies can be worn with either heel height, but flares can’t – unless you are a fun of knackered hems.  I love a frayed hem myself, but those are for particular times and places.

My personal favourites at the moment are the MiH Marrakesh Flares shown at the top of this post.  They are gorgeous, stylish and will help my short welsh legs look far longer than they are (with the aid of 4″ heels hidden under the extra length!),  The only setback at the moment – £155 at Donna Ida.  I’ll work on justifying the cost…

When it comes to jeans you need to take care of them too by washing and drying them in the right way – I’m afraid I’m not going to give away all of my tips today so you’ll have to keep visiting if you want that kind of info.

Well, I need to give you a reason to come back :0)

 

Do you dress for cocktails?

I was very disappointed the other weekend.  I ventured out on a rare evening of cocktails with some girlfriends to celebrate a friend’s pivotal birthday  (yeah? Like I’m going to tell you WHICH pivotal birthday…) where we had earmarked the perfect location to celebrate.  Each of us had put our best foot forward and looked fab and polished.  However I was horrified at the lack of effort demonstrated by many of the other men and women in the bar.  We were at a lovely establishment, glossy, smart, but to my horror very few people fitted the bill.  Perhaps the mistake was that it was a Friday night and many had called in for after-work drinks in their dress-down garb.  (Dress down Friday is my own personal bug-bear – more on that another time.)  It just took the gloss off a little as I scanned the room to see a few too many pairs of washed out denim jeans, un-tucked shirts and scuffed shoes.

After this little let down I became concerned for two reasons:

Reason 1 – I have such a sad and sorry personal social life that I am excited about an evening indulging in cocktails when, for everyone else, it’s simply a daily/weekly event.

Reason 2 – We have forgotten how much joy we get from going those few extra yards to look the part, enjoying the whole experience for the treat it is.  I don’t mean that in a vacuous sense, that looking the part is the only important thing.  I am suggesting that where we once gained pleasure from getting ready and putting on our “costume” for the evening, we don’t anymore and in not doing so we’ve lost something special.

I am not for a moment suggesting that women should revert to wearing gloves and hats when shopping circa 1955, that men should never remove their jackets or that we should dress for dinner at home (at the moment the meals I prepare are hardly worth that amount of effort!).  But it warms my heart when I see someone who has obviously enjoyed dressing for the occasion, marking the event for what it is and enjoying it fully.

How often do we get really dressed up these days?  Very few weddings come my way anymore, dancing is a rarity (which I seriously need to change) and when we do go out it’s often very casual.  So I take pleasure in dressing for even the most mundane day-to-day events in my life.

We each have our own routines and standards.  I like putting on my make up each morning and it wouldn’t occur to me to leave the house with wet hair.  I like to have all my clothing available ironed and ready to go depending on what mood hits me in the morning.  I am sure many would think that I care too much, but this works for me, always making me feel more energised and prepared for the day ahead.

So why not take a look at your routines and dressing habits and ask yourself if you would like to change any of them.  You may be perfectly happy the way you are and good for you if that is the case.  However, you may want to change.  Do you wish you could be better organised so that you can achieve a polished look with the minimum of effort?   Would you like to learn how to dress for each occasion and master the ever elusive smart casual that works for so many occasions?

If you do want help, you know where I am if you need me.

What’s Your Favourite Party Piece?

Did you pack your party dresses away with the Christmas baubles last year, where they lie patiently awaiting their annual airing?  Do you have your requisite cocktail dress and full-length full-blown glamour dress ready and waiting to play their part in this seasons festivities?  Yes? Well, don’t we all.

But all too often they’re not up to the new expectations of partywear as we now know it.   Too recognisable from previous outings and just too particular in their appearance, too often they are over designed and over dressy.

There are always the simple classics of course, which are perfect all-rounders, saving us at the last minute when all else has failed.  But, don’t we all deserve something fun and exciting now and then?  I want to experience that wonderful feeling that I got when, as teenagers, my friends and I got ready in a gaggle of excitement trying on each others new purchases, wondering what the evening ahead had in store for us.

So what is the new party wear style?

Think daytime luxe, exquisite quality fabrics that have a sumptuousness about their drape and movement.  Silk jersey, silk satin, silk georgette, diaphanous layers, faux furs, feather trims – the possibilities are endless.

But, if I were to pick just one essential piece for my party wardrobe, it would have to be a Tux.  Over the last couple of winters it has grown in popularity and for good reason.  It’s the most delicious piece of outerwear for moving from car to venue, but it can also be worn a la Bianca Jagger with, simply, a fabulous bra and radiant smile.  Black is great, but winter white even better. Wear with fabulous colour mixes, or none, if preferred, maintaining a Casablanca style palette of white, silver and black.

This season the clever way to dress is by mixing separates in new and creative ways.   Try a billowing, satin shirt worn with skinny trousers and a pair of ever-chic LK Bennett Shilo shoes – exquisite in their simplicity.  A Reiss long sleeve T with flowing palazzo pants accessorized with Stella and Dot statement necklace and strappy sandals.

                     

(above: Stella and Dot Snake Orb Pendant and Reiss Cherine Trousers and Dominique top. White Tuxedo, YSL)
 

But if new pieces are financially out of your reach, play dress up again in your friend’s wardrobes.  “Emma’s Closet” has regular visitors when an event is coming up.  As a group of girls we are all roughly the same size, coming in various shapes.  It’s wonderful to get together and giggle our way through all possible permutations of what we collectively own – and, boy, do we giggle!!